Hakone, Japan - Things to see and do - Destination Guide
Introduction
If you are looking for a fun day trip that will allow you some cool experiences and isn't too far out of Tokyo, then Hakone is the place for you. Also popular with travellers making the trip between Tokyo and Kyoto or Osaka, Hakone is located just a short distance out of Tokyo and is one of Japan's most popular holiday destinations. It is famous for its hot springs, views of Mount Fuji and amazing scenery. A trip to Hakone, be it for one day or a few days, is definitely one to have on your list for when you travel to Japan.
Where is Hakone and how to get there?
Hakone is located Japan’s Kanagawa Prefecture, in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park (where you will also find Mount Fuji - aka Fujisan) and is approximately 80km (50 miles) south west of Tokyo. The most common mode of transport used to get there, like with most of Japan, is train. The train trip can take anywhere from 45 minutes to just over 2 hours, depending on what train you want to catch / how much money you want to spend. The two most popular options are:
Odakyu Limited Express Romancecar
Shinkansen and Hakone Tozan Railway
Romancecar
The Romancecar departs from Shinjuku Station and takes around 80 minutes to reach Hakone-Yumoto Station. The Romancecar is reserved seating only, so you must make a reservation. As with any train along this route, on a clear day you can spot the majestic Mount Fuji as you make your trip. There are a number of different Romancecar models. If you manage to grab the 70000 series (GSE), to make the trip a bit more special, you can reserve a seat in the observation carriages (very front and very back of the train).
If you have already purchased a Hakone Free Pass, the Romancecar is included if you pay an extra supplement at the station.
Is the Romancecar only for couples?
While the name may make you think this is a specifically designed romantic train for couples, it is just a normal train, with an odd name. So why is it called that? Here's a bit of history for you...
After the second world war, a new 'invention' became popular in cinemas, cafes, etc. and that was the 'Romance Seat' - aka a 2 person seat without an armrest between the two people. This came at a time when one person seats were the norm. A number of trains took this up as well, but after a number of years, the name was not used as much, until eventually, only the Odakyu train company kept using the name. It is now a well known train with millions of tourists each year taking the non romantic journey on the Romancecar.
Shinkansen
If you would prefer to take a Shinkansen (aka bullet train), you can catch it from Tokyo to Odawara Station, which is as far as the Shinkansen (or any JR train) goes and then switch to the Hakone Tozan Railway for the last part of the trip. The Shinkansen from Tokyo to Odawara takes around half an hour. If you have the JR Pass (Japan Rail Pass), the Shinkansen is included, so this trip will cost you nothing. Otherwise, you can book your bullet train on Klook.
Where is the Shinkansen station in Tokyo?
Shinkansen can not operate on normal train lines. They only run on lines built specifically for them. In Tokyo, there are two stations that you can catch bullet trains from - Tokyo Station and Shinagawa Station. Tokyo Station is the main and most popular station, but both will get you on a bullet train bound for Odawara Station.
Odawara to Hakon-Yumoto
Once you reach Odawara, you will need to swap trains for the final part of your journey - a quick 15 minute train trip from Odawara to Hakone-Yumoto Station on the Hakone Tozan Railway. You can pay for this train trip by itself if you have no intention of taking any other Hakone transport options, but almost everyone takes this next train as part of their Hakone Free Pass ticket which includes travel options from Odawara onwards. If you have not purchased this in advance from Klook or the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center at Shinjuku Station, you can grab it easily at the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center inside the Odawara train station. They will provide you with a very handy brochure that shows a map detailing the various things you can see and do as you do the loop, but if you want a copy in advance, check it out here.
Things to see and do in Hakone
Hakone is up the top of many travellers list when they visit Japan if they want to stay in a traditional ryokan or experience an authentic Onsen as it is a well known location for both of these things (as someone who has stayed there and done both, I can attest to that being true). But Hakone isn't just about Onsen and ryokan. Here is a list of things you can spend your time doing while in Hakone:
1. Hakone Tozan Railway
The Hakone Tozan Railway is a fun train trip that has some stunning scenery as you climb the mountain, making your way up to Gora. This trip has a number of switchbacks that require the driver to swap from one end of the train to the other. So, unless you move, sometimes you could be at the front of the train and sometimes at the back, all on the one journey.
The Hakone Tozan Railway trip from Hakone-Yumoto Station to Gora Station takes around 40 minutes.
If you are in Japan during June/July, the hydrangea blooms are so close to the train that you can almost touch them. The sheer quantity of them means this train is known as the Hydrangea Train during this time.
2. Hakone Open Air Museum
If you know your Pablo Picasso from your Henry Moore, then this museum may be of interest to you. Situated a short walk from Chokoku-no-mori Station (last stop before Gora), this open air museum (with some indoor collections as well) is a lovely way to spend your time as you travel around Hakone.
3. Hakone Tozan Cable Car
It doesn't move quickly, but the Hakone Cable Car will get you from Gora Station to Sounzan Station further up the mountain much quicker than walking. Not to mention, it is much easier as well! The complete journey takes around 10 minutes and there are four stops on the journey up to Sounzan Station where you will be able to hop on the Ropeway to continue your journey around Hakone.
4. Owakudani and the Hakone Ropeway
This is one of those unique places that needs to be on your list if you are in the area. Owakudani (aka Great Boiling Valley) is a volcanic valley with sulfur vents. The best way to get here is to take the Ropeway to the area and enjoy views of the valley and of Mount Fuji if the weather is clear on the way up.
The Ropeway starts from Sounzan Station (where the Cable Car ends) and travels all the way to Togendai Station (where you can get on the pirate ship), a total distance of 4km (2.5 miles). Travel time is around 25 minutes.
One of the drawcards to the area is the opportunity to purchase the famous black eggs. These eggs have been boiled in hot sulphurous water, which turns them black due to the sulfur content. Underneath the shell, they look and taste like a regular egg. Folklore has it that eating these black eggs will add 7 years to your life, so I'm now officially living 7 years longer!
5. Lake Ashinoko (Lake Ashi) and the Hakone Pirate Ship
Another highlight of the Hakone area is Lake Ashi. This famous lake provides stunning views of the surrounding mountains, including Mount Fuji. In fact, some of the pictures you have probably seen of Mount Fuji in travel brochures would be from here. If the weather is clear, you can manage to get a photo of Mount Fuji and the torii gate of the Hakone-jinja shrine emerging from the water, in the one photo.
Even better than seeing this lake, is travelling across it - in a pirate ship! This is another fun thing to do in the area that shouldn't be missed (and is also included in your Hakone Free Pass if you picked up one of those). Make sure you admire the details of the ship itself as well as the amazing views of where you are.
You can pay extra if you want to upgrade to first class. This means that you get access to the front of the boat on the top and a special room at the front on the inside, all away from the majority of people on the boat who are towards the back. Worth it in my opinion, even if it's just so you can have your Titanic moment at the bow of the boat.
The cruise covers three different ports, with most people starting from Togendai-ko and ending in Motohakone-ko (but you can get off at Hakonemachi-ko if you want to end there instead). The complete cruise is around 40 minutes in duration.
Along the way you will be able to spot Kuzuryu-jinja Shrine and its more well known and bigger brother, Hakone-jinja Shrine, by their distinctive red (vermillion) torii gates.
6. Hakone-jinja Shrine (aka Hakone Shrine)
Down on the shore of Lake Ashi, just past the port of Motohakone-ko, you will find the famous Hakone Shrine. Located in a gorgeous forest of Japanese cedar trees, this shrine is best known for its stunning torii gate right on the waters edge. While you can view this gate from the boat and from land when you depart the ship, if you can, take a small walk around the lake to be able to stand right at this gate and get that insta photo you know you want.
7. Lake Ashinoko Loop Walk
Not only can you boat across this famous lake, but, if you are keen and have a reasonable level of fitness, you can also walk around the whole lake. Covering a distance of 19.6km (12.2 miles), the walk takes around 5 hours for the average person to complete. It is a very popular trail, but if you walk it early or late, you are bound to get a good deal of peacefulness and quietness.
8. Onsen
Everyone who comes to Japan wants to try an Onsen and Hakone is certainly very well known for these famous hot spring baths. Having an abundance to choose from, you are sure to find one that meets all your requirements. From small to big, indoors to outdoors, public to private, they are all here.
While any Onsen will be a great experience, my hot tip is to stay at least one night and choose accommodation that has its own Onsen. Go straight from the Onsen back to your room and enjoy one of the best sleeps you will ever have. Or better yet, choose a room that has your own private Onsen!
If this is your first time using an Onsen, there are a few rules to be aware of with the most important being that proper etiquette is to wash your body before entering the bath. You don’t use an Onsen to clean yourself. They are for relaxing after you clean yourself. It is extremely rude to hop in one without washing first.
A perfect day out in Hakone
Hakone definitely needs to be on your list if you are visiting Japan. While there, be it for 1 day or longer, one of the most popular things to do and something that includes many of the things mentioned above is the Hakone Loop. This is a journey around Hakone encompassing many different modes of transport and seeing some of the tops sights and is the perfect addition to your itinerary.
Start your journey at Hakone-Yumoto Station and travel in an anti-clockwise direction (the most popular way to go). Of course you can travel in the other direction or start from somewhere else if it works out better for you.
How long do you need in Hakone?
In a pinch, Hakone can be a day trip out of Tokyo. As long as you get up early and catch the right train, you can travel to Hakone, use the Free Pass to loop around, taking in the sights and then train back to Tokyo. Doable, but if you can, consider at least one night in the area. You still may want to do the loop in one day, but not having to travel back afterwards and being able to relax in an Onsen and maybe even stay in a ryokan will make the visit so much more enjoyable. So, my recommendation at a minimum is to stay at least one night and try to have at least one full day to complete the loop without rushing.
Where to buy the Hakone Free Pass?
The most popular places to buy this handy pass are:
Online: Klook
In person: Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center (either Shinjuku Station or Odawara Station)
Summary
So, for a truly relaxing experience in an Onsen, stunning scenery (including a possible glimpse of Mount Fuji) and fun experiences as you do the famous loop, Hakone should definitely be on your list. Being so well located to Tokyo just adds to the fact that this town should be on your list, even if it is just a day trip.